Back in the UK, the kilt isn't exactly common on the streets, but you certainly do see them about. At most formal events, you'll see one or two people wearing their clan colours and Bonnie Prince Charlie jackets.
In America, they're really quite rare. I caused quite a stir when I stopped off at Home Depot for some batteries!
I think one of the reasons for their rarity has to be cost. The price of the entire Scottish get-up varies wildly depending on the quality of the outfit, but even on the cheapest sets, you're not looking to get much change back from $600.
Weighing the Options
The most essential part of the Scottish outfit has to be the kilt itself, and this is where the major disparity in cost comes into play. Proper kilts are made from worsted wool and the most immediate gauge of quality comes in the weight of the fabric. The cheapest kilts are about 10-11 ounces per yard. 'Proper' kilts of regimental quality weight in at a hefty 18-21 ounces.
The weight of a kilt effects the way it hangs and also how comfortable it is to wear. Since most kilt wearers aren't going to be playing the bagpipes in front of the Queen, an affordable recommended weight would be between 13 and 16 ounces..
The heavier the fabric, the more expensive the kilt will ultimately be; but heavier kilts also tend to be of a better quality construction. The pleats (which hang to the rear of the kilt and give the wearer freedom of movement) are often merely pressed into shape on cheaper kilts. On a regimental weight kilt, they'll be specially sewn, making the shape of the skirt a lot more durable and crisper.
A 13 ounce kilt in standard tartan (like the Hunting Stewart I'm wearing at the top of this post) will cost around $150. A regimental weight kilt will generally cost upwards of ten times more.
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Clan Do Attitude
The ultimate expression of your Scottish heritage is to wear your clan colours.
Even though there have been calls to establish an official Scottish registry of tartans, one doesn't exist at this present point in time, so it's impossible to know exactly how many separate tartans there are in existence. The number is considerable, however!
Even though there have been calls to establish an official Scottish registry of tartans, one doesn't exist at this present point in time, so it's impossible to know exactly how many separate tartans there are in existence. The number is considerable, however!
Traditionally, a Scotsman wears the tartan of his mother's clan. There are exceptions if you're part of the military or clergy. Both have their own individual tartans; as do some football clubs!
Your choice it tartan will again effect the price of your kilt. Some, such as the Black Watch tartan or Royal and Hunting Stewart, are mass produced and available cheaply in a variety of different weights. Other, more exclusive tartans often have to be sourced specially and are generally only available in the more quality weights of worsted wool.
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For various reasons, I decided to buy a Hunting Stewart kilt (left) rather than my family MacDonald tartan (right.)
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Foremost of these was the colour. As a traditional ginger Scot, the red MacDonald tartan would clash horribly with my hair!
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The Hunting Stewart is a good compromise. It neatly identifies my Scottish roots and satisfies my demanding fashion requirements at the same time!
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When choosing the tartan of your kilt, it's certainly worth considering your family tartan, but if that proves too expensive or ugly an option, the traditional Royal Stewart (in red) and Hunting Stewart are attractive tartans to suit most wearers.
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It's worth remembering that most people won't know the difference between one tartan or another and the kilt itself will be proof enough of your Scottish roots (even if you don't really have them.)
What's On Top?
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While you'll most often see kilts at formal events and gatherings, it's important to remember that the traditional style of Scottish dress originated out of practicality. .
Out in the Highlands of Scotland, clansmen wore the kilt on a daily basis and that means there's no official rule about what's worn on top.
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Since most people don the kilt for formal events, the most common form of upperwear is a traditional Scottish 'Bonnie Prince Charlie.'
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This is a two piece jacket ensemble worn with a traditional dress short and bow tie. Available in shops or mail order, this ensemble will generally set you back about $300 or more, depending on the quality of the product. .
While the sleeves of the jacket should reach just short of the wrist, like a normal suit or tuxedo jacket, it's important to note that the jacket is much short and tapers to an end just south of the wearer's belly button (which is covered by the kilt.)
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Even though this is the most traditional type of outfit, it's by no means the only option open. A slightly less formal option would be to wear a standard jacket and waistcoat from a three piece suit, like I've done in the picture at the top of this post. Alternatively, you could simply wear a black waistcoat with tie or bow tie or even just a white shirt.
Considering the cost of a Bonnie Prince Charlie jacket will easily match that of an entry level kilt, it's certainly worth considering what other options you have if cost is a major consideration. If the event isn't quite so formal, you could even try something like this:
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Bells and Whistles
Like with most outfits, it's all in the details. When donning the kilt, there are certain finishing touches that are vital to completing the outfit.
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First and foremost is the Sporran. Because the kilt has no pockets, the Sporran is a highly practical addition to your outfit which will swallow up your wallet, mobile phone and keys.
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It's not just for storage, though. The weight of a Sporran is vital to any man's modesty. When sitting or standing, it weighs down the front of the kilt and helps keep a man's privates private, in spite of gravity, strong winds or curious tugs.
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A kilt is generally a leather pouch held loosely around the waist with a belt or chain. In it's natural state, it should hang directly in front of a man's 'bits.' Remember not to have your mobile phone set on 'vibrate!'More affordable sporrans will set you back less than $100 and are made and decorated from seal hide. More expensive sporrans are generally made from more expensive animals.
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In Scotland, if the Sporran is made from an endangered animal such as a Badger, the wearer is required to have a licence for it!
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Sporrans with chains generally hang better and are more affordable. Online shops and eBay are excellent places to find them at acceptable prices.
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Another important part of the outfit is a kilt pin. This is another practical addition to the outfit which keeps the bottom flaps of the kilt joined together (further protecting the wearer's dignity.)
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Measure the correct position by raising one foot onto a chair and keeping the other on the floor. This is about as much slack as your kilt will need. Make sure the apron (the flat front of the kilt) hangs nicely once you've returned your foot to the floor.
Almost all kilts will come with a free pin; it generally resembles a giant safety pin. More decorative pins can be purchased very inexpensively for less that $20.
Feet on the Ground
The penultimate detail of your outfit are your feet. No kilt is complete without long argyle socks, which should come just short of your knee and be folded over at the top..
This fold can conceal bands or suspenders to 'keep your socks up' or be used to attach flashes or even a dagger (a Scottish dirk) to your calf.
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As for the shoes... The traditional outfit demands 'gillies,' which are flat soled dress shoes which have overlong laces to wrap around your calf and help keep your socks up. If these are too expensive; or you can't tie your laces; substitute simple slip-on dress shoes.
The Final Detail
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The most commonly asked question Scotsman face is: "What's worn under the kilt?"
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The correct answer is apparently: "Nothing's WORN under the kilt. It's all in fine working order!"
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As for the question of whether or not you should go 'commando' in the kilt? Well, that's a decision only you can make. One word of advice, however... If budget is a real issue when putting together your authentic Scottish outfit, why not do what they do?
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Most kilt-wearing Scotsman never spend a penny on undergarments.
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Three Good Scottish Outfitters:
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Kilts 'N' Stuff Also known as The Celtic Croft
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The Kilt Store All imported from Scotland
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Kilts.com They have an Irish section too...
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1 comment:
Minor typo - you wrote "A kilt is generally a leather pouch held loosely around the waist with a belt or chain." I think you're referring to the sporran, not a kilt, as the subject of that sentence... Otherwise, interesting post.
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